One of our favourite restaurants, probably in the world is La Pineta. It’s basically a shack on the beach serving amazing seafood earning a Michelin *. It is 75mins south of our house at Marina di Bibbona.

Tragically the chef and proprietor Luciano Zazzeri committed suicide this week. How sad a man with this beautiful sea view felt the need to end his life. His wife and lovely sons work in the restaurant; it seemed like the perfect life.

Photographer Oliviera Toscani saw him the day before and he was as warm & friendly as ever.

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Baccala 3 ways

Freddie enjoying the sunset. The best place to enjoy dinner.

I thoroughly recommend a romantic meal on the beach (take your bikinis & trunks) on a warm balmy sunny evening.

http://www.lapinetadizazzeri.it/LaPineta/Home.html

Last August our son organised a boat hire in the Cinque Terre (Five Lands but really is 5 villages). I was a bit surprised but he was insistent and as he paid we didn’t argued. His idea was to show his girlfriend how beautiful the Cinque Terre is.

We had always walked or taken the large public boat from Lericci, parking in the large car park above the town.

Freddie spoke to the owner of Rayo Verde Tour (boat rental – see nearest boat) +39 342 3940692 and organised the 4hours Portovenere for our boat trip and swimming. Dario is a very charming and obliging Italian, the type of person you are happy spending time with. (He also does shorter sunset trips).

We met at Manarola harbour which is about 75-90mins drive from A Corte, has good car parking facility above the town and nice cafes to breakfast and lunch in.

The trip was amazing. The boat was great, lunch and drinks provided and you cruise around the most beautiful 15km coastline.

Our private boat trip cost about €400 but it was worth it. I think the boat takes about 6 people. You can also go on a much bigger public boat from Lerici for a small fee which stops at all the 5 points. You can also walk on the Cinque Terre which is a national park. Take your camera, goggles and flippers for when you co for a swim.

Twelve to fifteen minutes from our house on the east side of the Serchio river is a beautiful bridge over a tranquil stretch of river well known by fly fishermen.

The Devil’s bridge was constructed between 1046-1115 and was supposedly built with the aid of the devil himself and was used by pilgrims crossing from France to Rome in C1400.

An hours drive from our house is the wonderful ski resort of Abetone, voted one of the top 10 national ski resorts in the world. We very rarely have snow but when the warm weather returns the snow melts which caused huge floods 5 years ago. This year there has been lots of snow on the Alps and Dolimities which also spread south into Tuscany and even Rome. Probably because of the sunny climate and 18C temperatures we had terrible floods again on January 31st.


On the other side of the Serchio there were terrible landslips but the old bridge once again survived the elements.
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I am glad to report the following day it was full sun 18C and has been another wonderful bright dry winter’s day.

Today, so many areas in the world are ruined by overdevelopment but Italy boasts many beautiful unspoilt areas where time literally stands still. Nowhere is this more true than in our valley!

Our local farmer, Gianfranco, still hand-milks his cows, grows all his vegetables and fruit (no supermarket shopping for this family!). The family chapel (adorned with amazing frescoes) is his workshop where he ‘makes-do and mends’ farm machinery.

Gianfranco’s sister, Mariarosa, takes great pride in her role of housekeeping and cooking for her husband Alessio and her brother Gianfranco, With her little dog Peggy for company, she spends many happy hours in her outdoor kitchen preparing family meals (no need for high-tech kitchen gizmos in this traditional Tuscan household!) Year in, year out, this family and local friends, tend the valley ensuring it is productive in organic olive oil and wine. Tradition here has stood the test of time.

Gianfranco, Alessio and Mariarosa.

Last year it was the Rolling Stones and this year Elton rocks Lucca. It will be his farewell tour.

So many of the greats like David Bowie, Prince, Lou Reed, BBKing, Bob Dylan, Ray Charles, Eagles, Neil Young, Paul Simon, Black Eyed Peas, Alicia Keys, Eric Clapton, Ringo Star, Joan Baez, James Taylor, Rod Stewart, Santana, George Michael, Leonard Cohen, Steely Dan, Killers, Stevie Wonder, Nile Rodgers & Chic, Roger Waters, Pet Shop Boys, Tom Jones, Van Morrison, Prodigy, Robbie Williams etc have rocked the Roman amphi-theatre in Lucca. It is a wonderful chilled out evening.

Who else is playing this year? Take that, New Order, Elbow, Mark Knofler, Scorpions, Sting, Tears for Fears are some of the booked names for 2019.

If you fancy a brilliant night and alternative to the Puccini opera in Torre del Lago or the wonderful choirs in Lucca’s churches check out the website http://www.summer-festival.com/home   

More acts will be added as the summer nears

The Viareggio carnival celebrates its 146 consecutive year in February and March 2019? It is the 2nd biggest carnival in the world after Rio and attracts 600,000 crazy Italians. It is an explosion of colour and coincides with the oranges filling the trees on the town’s streets which is beautiful in itself. http://viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/programma-eventi/parades/  

I love Italian design.

Trump always attracts attention

John Lennon – Italians love the Beatles. Their songs are often songs are often sung by Italian football fans

A former resident from nearby Elba, Napoleon

An iconic 1950’s design

I absolutely love these posters

Even the kids love the campness

A darker night time mood

Viareggio beach – military precision. We go to Bagno Dahlia on the boundaries of Forti di Marmi & Marina di Pietrasanta http://www.bagnodaliadauro.it/en/ which is run by the lovely Tiziana and her family . They have a lovely seafood restaurant when you want to avoid the midday sun and a bar to watch the sun setting.

Viareggio has a wonderful mediterranean climate and superb oranges in February and March

CHURCH ON HILL

Looking from the kitchen terrace, looking over the pool you will see a bombed out church on the top of the hill.

During World War 11, the German army had a huge canon hidden in the church to stop the US advance along the river, using the lofted position to view any movement over the valley. On the far side the trenches are still visible amongst the broom bushes and gorse. From the church there are amazing views over looking the Lucca plateau and the mountains towards the ski resort at Abetone.

It is a really good 60+ – 90 mins walk to the top, walking up the track through the hamlet of Gugliano, and the woods, then along the flat ridge south of A Corte and then at the junction turning left up the hill rather than down the hill to Aquilea (where they have a very nice bar and cafe).

Casa a Corte visible in the valley

During the G7 2017 summit, held in Lucca, the US German foreign ministers visited the sight and paid their respects to the extreme bravery of the German soldiers who lost their lives.

Enotecca Vanni is one of the best 2 wine shops in Italy and has the most amazing wine cellars and terrace to sample wines with a plate of cheese.

We do this on every trip and never tire of the experience.

Paolo outside his enoteca

Paolo washing vintage wine bottles in the wonderful fountain in the Piazza.
http://www.enotecavanni.it/

After the huge success of the Rolling Stones rocking the walls of Lucca in 2017, there are some wonderful musicians playing in the wonderful amphi-theatre within the walls of Lucca this July 2018.

It is brilliant, so intimate and relaxed.

All the greats have played – David Bowie, Lou Reed, Stones, Bob Dylan, Elton John, Prince
Some of the acts that have confirmed for July 2018 are:

Hollywood Vampires (incl Jonny Depp, Alice Cooper & Jo Perry of Aerosmith) 7th July

Ringo Starr 8th July

Roger Waters of Pink Floyd

Gorrillaz 12 July

Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds 17th July

King Crimson 25th July

Several more will be playing so check the link http://www.summer-festival.com/home

During the summer it is hard to imagine the grass transforming from brown back to green but nature is quite incredible and miracles do occur.

Misty October mornings, the thermometer is still 26C and the days are wonderfully sunny.


The restaurants are cooking delicious porcini mushrooms and men from the Garfagnana mountains are selling all types on the side of the roads

The monastery on east side of the river looks down over Ponte a Moriano. During Easter they have wonderful music concerts with church choirs.
Just below the south terrace we see a roe deer hind with her fawns on most days as soon as the sun drops down behind the hill. The shooting season for birds has sadly started. They mainly shoot pheasant & woodcock but blackbirds are also added to the pot. During November, December and January the Cinghiale hunting season (wild boar) starts. The hills are full of boar but I hope our roe deer aren’t shot.


In Cappella, the orchard area outside of Lucca, local fruit are still being sold. The figs and peaches have finished but there are lots of pears and apples. The Vendemmia is now finished. This year there was a shortage of grapes because of the record temperatures but the quality is good.


Farmer GianFranco and his brother finish picking the grapes before the first rain storm for 6 months

Local produces



Paolo washing 100 year old bottles outside www.enotecavanni.it in the local square in Piazza San Salvatore 7, 55100 Lucca. His enoteca is one of the best 2 wine shops in Italy


Shopkeeper in Via Fillungo, Lucca

Last of the figs and peaches

You have to try the Crostata di mele (apple pie)